Bottom Fishing at Sea: Rigs, Gear, Bait & Techniques
Bottom fishing at sea is a versatile saltwater technique that keeps natural bait on or close to the seabed, where many coastal and offshore species feed. It can be practiced from beaches, piers, harbors, rocks, and boats, with the setup adapted to depth, current, bottom type, and target fish.
This complete guide explains how to choose the right rod, reel, line, sinker, rig, and bait, how shore and boat bottom fishing differ, and how to make practical adjustments when conditions change.

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How Does Bottom Fishing at Sea Work?
Bottom fishing at sea places bait on or just above the seabed with enough weight to keep the rig in the feeding zone. The most effective setup is not automatically the heaviest one: use the lightest sinker that still gives reliable bottom contact, then match the rig, leader, hook, and bait to the current, seabed, and species you expect to encounter.
Bottom fishing in six practical steps
- Read the venue. Identify depth, current, bottom type, obstacles, and likely feeding areas before choosing the terminal tackle.
- Choose enough sinker weight. Start light and increase only until the bait stays where you need it.
- Select a rig for the bottom. Running rigs suit clean ground; paternoster-style rigs help lift bait over weed or rougher terrain.
- Match hook and bait. Small worms need fine, sharp hooks; crab, squid, shellfish, and fish strips may need stronger patterns.
- Maintain controlled contact. Keep the line organized and sensitive without pulling the bait unnaturally across the bottom.
- Change one variable at a time. If bites stop, vary distance, bait, leader length, hook size, or sinker weight before abandoning the spot.
What Is Bottom Fishing at Sea?
Bottom fishing is an umbrella term for bait-fishing methods that work on or close to the seabed. A sinker controls depth and position while the hook bait is presented in the zone where bottom-feeding fish and structure-oriented predators search for food.
Depending on the venue, the rig may be cast from shore, lowered vertically from a boat, or allowed to move slowly with the current. The common principle is bottom contact—not one fixed rod length, reel size, or rig.
That distinction matters because tackle that works on a calm sandy beach may be unsuitable beside rocks or in deep current. Successful bottom fishing is therefore a process of matching presentation, weight, and strength to the exact conditions.
Best for anglers who want:
- A technique suitable for beaches, ports, piers, cliffs, and boats.
- A simple method that can become very technical with experience.
- The possibility of catching both small fish and larger specimens.
- A relaxing fishing style with moments of strong excitement during the bite and fight.
Key concept: choose the lightest practical sinker that maintains control, then adjust leader length, hook size, bait durability, and rig style to the seabed and current.
Bottom Fishing, Surfcasting, Coastal Bottom Fishing and Deep Bottom Fishing
These terms overlap, but they are not identical. Understanding the difference helps you choose the right equipment and prevents a broad bottom-fishing setup from becoming unnecessarily heavy or specialized.
| Method | Where it is practiced | Main objective | Typical emphasis |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bottom fishing at sea | Shore or boat | Present bait on or near the seabed | Versatility: rigs, sinker control, natural bait, bottom reading |
| Surfcasting | Beaches and open shorelines | Reach feeding zones through or beyond the surf | Long casts, stable sinkers, long rods, wave and current management |
| Coastal bottom fishing | Boat, usually in nearshore water | Fish vertically or on a short controlled line over coastal seabeds | Precise boat positioning, sensitive tackle, moderate depths |
| Deep-sea bottom fishing | Boat, deeper water | Reach deep structures and bottom-oriented fish | Greater line capacity, heavier weights, stronger tackle, depth management |
Practical takeaway: use this article as the broad shore-and-boat reference. If your fishing is exclusively nearshore from a boat or specifically in deep water, the dedicated guides above provide a more focused setup.
Equipment for Bottom Fishing at Sea
A good bottom-fishing outfit is a balanced system. Rod power, reel capacity, line, leader, hook, and sinker must work together for the venue. Use the figures below as starting points rather than universal rules: reel size labels and rod ratings vary between manufacturers, and current can change the required weight dramatically.
Rod
Length, casting weight, and action determine casting distance, bite sensitivity, and control during the fight.
Reel
A reliable saltwater reel must offer line capacity, smooth drag, corrosion resistance, and good retrieval power.
Line
Monofilament, braid, and fluorocarbon leaders each have a specific role in strength, sensitivity, elasticity, and invisibility.

Bottom Fishing Setup by Venue
The fastest way to choose gear is to start with where you are fishing. The table below gives realistic reference ranges, then you can fine-tune the setup for current, casting distance, obstacles, and fish size.
| Venue | Rod | Reel | Typical sinker starting range | Best first rig |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Calm beach / clean shore | 3.6–4.5 m shore rod | 4000–7000 class* | 50–120 g | Running / sliding sinker rig |
| Pier / harbor | 2.7–3.9 m, depending on casting room | 4000–6000 class* | 30–100 g | Running rig or paternoster |
| Rocky shore | Strong 3.3–4.5 m rod | 5000–8000 class* | 60–150 g | Paternoster or breakaway sinker rig |
| Light boat bottom fishing | 1.8–2.7 m sensitive boat rod | 3000–6000 class* | 30–120 g | Paternoster / two-hook bottom rig |
| Deeper water / stronger current | Shorter, more powerful boat rod matched to weight | 6000–10000+ class* | 100–300 g+ when required | Controlled paternoster or heavy running rig |
*Reel size numbers are not standardized across brands. Compare actual spool capacity, drag performance, retrieve, weight, and construction rather than buying by the printed size alone.
Sinker rule: the best weight is usually the lightest one that still lets you reach the zone, maintain useful bottom contact, and stop the bait from drifting uncontrollably.
The Rod
The rod determines casting control, bite transmission, sinker management, and leverage during the fight. Length and power should be chosen for the venue first: long shore rods help line control and distance, while shorter boat rods are easier to handle vertically.
How to choose the right rod
For open beaches, a 4.0–4.5 m rod is a common starting point when distance and line clearance matter. From a pier or harbor, a shorter rod may be easier to control. From a boat, use a purpose-built shorter rod rather than applying shore dimensions to vertical fishing.
Prioritize sensitivity in calm, clean conditions and power when current, heavy weights, rough ground, or larger fish demand it. The best rod is the one that comfortably casts or lowers the required rig while still showing bites clearly.
The Reel
A bottom-fishing reel should retrieve smoothly under load, manage the line you actually use, and have a progressive drag. Saltwater resistance matters, but regular freshwater rinsing and maintenance are still essential.
For many shore setups, reels sold around the 5000–8000 class are common, while lighter pier or boat fishing can use smaller reels and deep or powerful fishing may need greater capacity. Because manufacturer sizing is inconsistent, compare spool capacity, drag, retrieve rate, weight, and construction—not the size number alone.

Drag, spool, and saltwater resistance
Line capacity should cover your maximum casting distance or fishing depth with a generous safety margin. Around 200–250 m is practical for many shore situations, but deep boat fishing may require substantially more, especially with braid.
- Corrosion resistance: essential for long-term use in marine environments.
- Medium gear ratio: around 4.6:1 to 5.2:1 provides a good balance between speed and power.
- Quality bearings: improve smoothness, durability, and comfort during long sessions.
The Line
The main line controls sensitivity, stretch, abrasion resistance, casting behavior, and how directly you can maintain contact with the rig. Choose it as part of the full system: a thin line is not automatically better if rocks, shells, heavy sinkers, or powerful fish are likely.

Monofilament
Nylon monofilament is elastic, forgiving, easy to manage, and ideal for beginners. It absorbs sudden runs and is reliable in many shore fishing situations.
Useful shore starting point: around 0.25–0.35 mm monofilament on relatively clean ground, increasing diameter or breaking strain around rocks, shells, obstacles, or larger fish. Always match line strength to the rod, sinker, knots, and target.
Braided Line
Braid offers high strength at a small diameter and very low stretch, which improves bottom feel and bite transmission. That same low stretch also transmits sudden shocks directly to knots, hooks, and the rod, so balanced drag and a suitable leader are important.
It is commonly paired with a monofilament or fluorocarbon leader for abrasion resistance, shock absorption, and a more forgiving terminal section.
Fluorocarbon Leader
Fluorocarbon is widely used for leaders because it is dense, relatively stiff, and abrasion resistant. Its reduced visibility can be useful in clear water, but diameter, knot quality, and presentation usually matter more than material alone.
It is especially useful for wary fish, clear water, rocky seabeds, and presentations that must look as natural as possible.
Essential Accessories
Beyond rod, reel, and line, bottom fishing requires accessories that improve bait presentation, reduce tangles, protect knots, and make the session more comfortable.

Sinkers
Sinkers must match depth, current, seabed, casting distance, and the amount of line exposed to moving water. In calm shallow water, 20–60 g may be enough; surf, stronger current, or deeper water can require 100–200 g or more. Increase weight only as far as needed to regain control.
Pyramid sinkers, finned sinkers, and grip-style models help keep the bait stable when current or wave movement tends to move the rig.
Complete guide to sinkers
Swivels, Snaps & Beads
Swivels reduce line twist, snaps allow fast rig changes, and beads protect knots from impact and friction.
Hooks
Carry several hook patterns and sizes rather than relying on one number. Hook sizing is not perfectly standardized between manufacturers: fine-wire hooks suit delicate worms and small baits, while stronger patterns are better for crab, shellfish, squid, cut bait, and larger fish.
Bait Containers
Ventilated boxes keep worms lively, while insulated containers with ice preserve mollusks, fish pieces, shrimp, and squid.
Rod Supports
Rod spikes are ideal for beaches, while adjustable tripods are excellent for rocks, ports, and piers.
Cutters & Scissors
Useful for trimming leaders, changing rigs quickly, removing damaged line, and preparing bait cleanly.
Headlamp & Tackle Box
A headlamp is essential at dawn, dusk, or night. A well-organized tackle box saves time and prevents losing small parts.
The Most Common Rigs in Bottom Fishing
The rig controls how freely the fish can take the bait, how high the bait sits above the seabed, and how likely the terminal tackle is to tangle or snag. There is no single 'best' bottom-fishing rig; choose the simplest rig that solves the problem created by the venue.

Sliding Sinker Rig
The sinker slides freely on the main line, while the leader and hook remain free to move. This lets the fish take the bait with minimal resistance.
Best for: sandy bottoms, calm water, gilthead bream, striped seabream, and cautious sparids.
Inverted Short Rig / Paternoster
The sinker stays at the bottom, while one or more hooklengths are positioned above it. This keeps the bait slightly lifted from the seabed.
Best for: rocky or mixed bottoms, areas with seaweed, and fish feeding just above the bottom.
Long Arm Rig
This rig uses a long leader, sometimes over one meter, allowing the bait to move with exceptional naturalness.
Best for: wary fish such as gilthead bream, sea bass, and cautious species in clear water.
Flag Rig
The flag rig presents two hooklengths from the same swivel, allowing you to test two baits or target different species at the same time.
Best for: mixed species, exploratory sessions, and days when fish preferences are uncertain.
Breakaway Sinker Rig
This setup allows the sinker to detach in case of snagging, helping protect the rest of the rig and reducing material loss.
Best for: rocky, mixed, or obstacle-rich bottoms where sinkers often get trapped.
Which rig should you start with?
On clean sand, start with a sliding sinker or simple running rig because it is easy to understand and gives the bait freedom. On weed, mixed ground, or rocks, a paternoster-style rig can hold the bait above trouble. If sinkers are frequently lost, use a sacrificial or breakaway sinker connection where local rules and the venue make it appropriate.
| Rig | Main Advantage | Best Seabed | Ideal Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sliding Sinker | Fish feel little resistance | Sandy or clean bottom | Cautious sparids and natural bait presentation |
| Paternoster | Keeps bait raised | Rocky or mixed bottom | Reducing snags and targeting fish feeding above the seabed |
| Long Arm | Maximum bait movement | Clean or lightly mixed bottom | Wary fish in clear water |
| Flag Rig | Two baits at once | Mixed environments | Testing bait preferences |
| Breakaway Sinker | Reduces loss of the full rig | Rocky and snaggy bottom | Fishing safely in complex areas |
| Rig | Best starting situation | Main advantage | Main limitation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sliding / running sinker | Clean sand, wary fish, calm to moderate conditions | Low resistance when a fish takes the bait | Can snag more easily around rough structure |
| Paternoster / dropper rig | Mixed or rocky ground, weed, boat fishing | Keeps one or more baits above the seabed | More components and more potential for tangles |
| Long-arm rig | Delicate presentation on clean or mixed ground | Separates the bait from the sinker and rig body | Long leaders can be harder to cast and manage |
| Flag rig | When controlled separation and anti-tangle geometry are useful | Organized presentation with multiple elements | Requires careful tying and matching to conditions |
| Breakaway sinker arrangement | Rocks, reefs, snag-prone terrain | Can save the rest of the rig if the sinker becomes trapped | You may lose sinkers, so use responsibly and minimize tackle loss |
The Best Bait for Bottom Fishing at Sea
Natural bait is effective in bottom fishing because scent, texture, and movement can closely match food already found on the seabed. The best bait is local, fresh, legal to use, and durable enough for the current and nuisance fish present.

Lugworm
Lugworm is one of the most classic and productive baits for bottom fishing. Its movement and scent are very attractive to striped seabream, gilthead bream, and other sparids.
Tip: rig it carefully on a thin hook to preserve movement and make the presentation more natural.

Bibi Worm and Other Marine Worms
Bibi worm and other marine worms are popular in Mediterranean bottom fishing because they combine scent with useful hook-holding strength. Regional bait names vary widely, so local tackle shops are often the best reference for equivalent species and the bait legally available in your area.
Best for: sea bream, porgies, red mullets, and bottom predators.

Bait Fish: Sardine, Mullet, Anchovy
Small fish or fish pieces are excellent for coastal predators thanks to their strong scent and natural appearance.
Best for: sea bass, barracuda, croakers, garfish, and other predatory fish.

Mussels and Razor Clams
Mollusks are highly effective for gilthead bream and sparids. Their natural flavor works especially well near rocks, mixed bottoms, and areas where fish feed on shellfish.
Tip: slightly opening or breaking the shell helps release more scent into the water.

Shrimps
Shrimps are versatile and can be used whole or in pieces. Raw shrimp is more natural, while cooked shrimp is more resistant on the hook.
Best for: seabream, red mullets, and rock-dwelling fish.

Live Crabs
Live crabs are selective and particularly effective for large gilthead bream and strong sparids. Their natural movement attracts cautious fish.
Tip: rig them through the carapace without compromising vitality.

Other effective baits: cuttlefish and squid strips are excellent for sea bass and nocturnal predators. Local annelids can also be extremely productive because they are already part of the natural diet of many coastal fish.
Bait legality matters: collection, transport, live-bait use, and the use of certain species can be regulated locally. Buy or collect bait responsibly and check the rules that apply where you are fishing.
Fish That Can Be Targeted
Bottom fishing can target a wide range of fish, but the species below are mainly examples from Mediterranean and European coastal fishing. Your local species, seasons, minimum sizes, protected areas, and bag limits may be different, so identify the fish correctly and follow the regulations for the exact water you are fishing.
Sparids
Gilthead bream love sandy bottoms and mollusks such as mussels, razor clams, and lugworms.
Black seabream often live around rocks, ports, and mixed seabeds, responding well to bibi worms and shrimp.
Striped seabream prefer sandy or mixed bottoms and natural baits like worms and mollusks.
Red porgy is wary and often requires high-quality natural bait and delicate presentation.
Coastal Predators
Sea bass is often active at night, dawn, and dusk, and responds well to live bait, sardines, mullet, and fish pieces.
Dentex frequents rocky and mixed bottoms and can be tempted by meaty baits and small fish.
Barracuda is fast and powerful, often requiring strong rigs, careful line control, and fish-based bait.
Schooling Fish
Bogues, saddled bream, and horse mackerels often move in groups and respond well to light rigs, small hooks, worms, and small fish pieces.
They are ideal for improving bite reading and maintaining activity during long sessions.
Bottom-Dwelling Fish
Gurnards and red mullets are attracted to worms, shrimp, and meaty baits near sand-rock transitions.
Congers and moray eels live around rocks and dens, requiring robust hooks, abrasion-resistant leaders, and strong bait such as fish pieces or mollusks.
Bottom Fishing from the Shore
Shore bottom fishing gives direct access to productive seabeds without a boat, but success depends less on casting as far as possible than on placing the bait in the right lane. Beaches, piers, harbors, breakwaters, and rocks each require a different balance of casting distance, snag resistance, and line control.

Choosing the Spot
- Sandy beaches: ideal for gilthead bream, striped seabream, and fish that dig for worms and mollusks.
- Cliffs and rocky outcrops: good for red mullet, seabream, conger, moray, and coastal predators.
- Breakwaters and ports: productive for schooling fish and opportunistic predators that use shelters and current lines.
Recommended Shore Setup
- Rod: 3.6–4.2 m, chosen according to casting distance and available space.
- Reel: 5000–8000 with smooth drag and a spool that holds enough line.
- Line: monofilament or braid with fluorocarbon leader.
- Accessories: sinkers, swivels, snaps, hooks, beads, rod spike, tripod, headlamp, and tackle box.
Shore fishing strategy
Study the seabed before casting. Look for changes in depth, sand channels, rocks, current seams, harbor structures, and areas where food may naturally accumulate.
Dawn, dusk, and darkness can be productive for many coastal species, but there is no universal best time. In clear, calm water, a more discreet leader and natural bait presentation may help; in dirty water or rough ground, durability and control can become more important.
Bottom Fishing from a Boat
Boat bottom fishing lets you work directly over depth changes, mixed seabeds, reefs, and other structure. Because you can lower the rig rather than cast it, shorter rods and thinner low-stretch main lines are often practical, but boat control and sinker weight become critical.

Best Boat Spots
- Sandy seabeds: suitable for gilthead bream, striped seabream, pagellus, and common seabream.
- Rocky or mixed seabeds: ideal for red mullets, congers, morays, sea bass, and other predators.
- Drop-offs and reefs: attract larger fish thanks to depth changes and natural feeding routes.
Recommended Boat Setup
- Rod: typically around 1.8–2.7 m for light vertical bottom fishing; longer or heavier rods may suit specialized methods.
- Reel: choose capacity and drag for depth and target; 3000–6000 can suit lighter work, while deeper or stronger fishing may require more.
- Line: braid or monofilament with strong fluorocarbon leader.
- Accessories: heavier sinkers, strong swivels, rod holders, landing net, and organized bait storage.
Practical boat tips
Positioning is crucial. Use depth changes, current direction, and seabed structure to decide where to anchor or drift. Adjust sinker weight to keep contact with the bottom without making the bait look unnatural.
Vary bait and depth until you identify where the fish are feeding. Some species stay close to the bottom, while others may rise slightly above it depending on current and food movement.
Pros and Cons of Bottom Fishing at Sea

Advantages
- Versatile: works from shore, piers, cliffs, harbors, and boats.
- Accessible: beginners can start easily, while experienced anglers can refine rigs and strategy.
- Wide range of species: from sparids to predators and bottom-dwelling fish.
- Flexible equipment: setups can be simple or highly specialized depending on the goal.
Disadvantages
- Often static: it requires patience, observation, and the ability to read subtle bites.
- Delicate bait: worms and live baits require care and may be expensive or difficult to find.
- Environmental influence: tides, wind, current, temperature, and seabed conditions strongly affect results.
- Risk of snags: rocky areas can cause sinker and rig losses without the right setup.
Common Bottom Fishing Mistakes
Most unproductive sessions are not solved by buying heavier tackle. They are usually improved by better bottom contact, cleaner presentation, and faster adaptation to what the venue is telling you.
Using too much sinker weight
A heavier sinker can reduce sensitivity and make the rig feel rigid. Add weight only until you regain useful control of the bait.
Fishing one rig everywhere
A running rig that is perfect on clean sand may become a snagging machine on rocks. Let the seabed choose the rig.
Ignoring line angle
Current acts on the entire length of line in the water. A thinner main line or different casting angle can sometimes improve control more effectively than adding weight.
Oversizing hooks
Hook size should match the bait and target mouth, not simply the size of fish you hope to catch. Oversized hooks can ruin a delicate presentation.
Leaving damaged leaders in use
Rocks, shells, fish teeth, and sinker contact can weaken leader material. Check it by touch and replace rough or nicked sections immediately.
Changing everything at once
If the bite is slow, change one variable at a time—distance, bait, leader, sinker, or rig—so you can understand what actually improved the response.
Practical Bottom Fishing Tips
Good bottom fishing is a cycle of observation, small adjustments, and tackle care. These habits improve control and reduce avoidable rig losses whether you fish from shore or from a boat.
Before fishing
- Study the spot: identify seabed type, depth changes, current, rocks, seaweed, and natural food areas.
- Prepare several rigs: carry sliding sinker, paternoster, long arm, and breakaway solutions.
- Vary baits: alternate worms, mollusks, fish pieces, shrimp, crab, cuttlefish, and squid.
- Check conditions: wind, tide, current, and water clarity influence fish behavior.
During fishing
- Keep contact with the rig: the line should be controlled but not unnaturally tight.
- Observe the rod tip: learn to distinguish current movement from real bites.
- Use thin leaders in clear water: cautious fish often respond better to discreet presentations.
- Move if needed: if there are no signs of activity, change casting distance, bait, or position.
After fishing
- Rinse gear with fresh water: rods, reels, sinkers, hooks, swivels, and scissors last longer when salt is removed.
- Check line and leaders: replace damaged sections, especially after fishing near rocks or shells.
- Organize the tackle box: prepare hooks, rigs, and sinkers for the next session.
Respect the sea
- Take away used line, hooks, packaging, and bait containers.
- Handle fish carefully and release undersized or unwanted catches when appropriate.
- Always check local rules, minimum sizes, and seasonal restrictions before fishing.
Safety and responsible fishing: check the weather and sea state before leaving, use secure footwear on wet rocks and breakwaters, keep hooks and sinkers under control while casting, and wear appropriate flotation on a boat. Always follow local licensing rules, protected-area restrictions, minimum sizes, closed seasons, bait rules, and catch limits.
FAQ About Bottom Fishing at Sea
What is the best rig for beginners?
On clean sand or an uncluttered seabed, a simple sliding or running sinker rig is an excellent starting point because it is easy to tie and allows the fish to take bait with limited resistance. If the bottom is rocky, weedy, or snaggy, start with a paternoster-style rig instead.
What is the best bait for bottom fishing?
There is no single best bait. Marine worms are versatile, while shrimp, crab, mussel, razor clam, squid, cuttlefish, and oily fish strips can be excellent depending on species and conditions. Fresh local bait that matches natural food is usually a better choice than a universal 'top bait'.
Can bottom fishing be practiced at night?
Yes. Night fishing can be excellent for sea bass, conger eels, moray eels, and several sparids. A headlamp, organized tackle, and safe positioning are essential.
Is monofilament or braided line better?
Monofilament is forgiving, abrasion tolerant, and easy to handle; braid has much lower stretch and transmits bottom contact and light bites more clearly. A common modern setup uses braid as the main line with a monofilament or fluorocarbon leader, but clean shore fishing can be handled very effectively with monofilament alone.
How do I avoid losing rigs on rocks?
Use paternoster rigs to keep the bait raised, breakaway sinker rigs to reduce losses, and stronger abrasion-resistant leaders when fishing over rocky or mixed bottoms.
How heavy should my sinker be for bottom fishing?
Use the lightest sinker that still reaches the fishing zone and keeps the bait under useful control. Calm shallow water may need only 20–60 g, while surf, strong current, or deeper boat fishing can require 100–300 g or more. Shape can matter as much as weight because grip-style sinkers resist movement better than round ones.
Can I bottom fish from a pier or harbor?
Yes. Piers and harbors are classic bottom-fishing venues because they can offer depth, structure, current seams, and easy access. Use tackle suited to the available casting space, watch for mooring lines and other anglers, and follow local access and fishing restrictions.
Is bottom fishing the same as surfcasting?
No. Bottom fishing describes where and how the bait is presented—on or near the seabed. Surfcasting is a shore-based casting method designed to fish through or beyond the surf. Many surfcasting rigs are bottom-fishing rigs, but bottom fishing can also be practiced from piers, rocks, harbors, and boats.
What is the best time for bottom fishing at sea?
It depends on the species and venue. Dawn, dusk, night, tide changes, current, water clarity, and seasonal movements can all influence feeding. Instead of relying on one universal time, identify the target species and learn how it behaves in your local area.
Conclusion
Bottom fishing at sea becomes much easier to understand when you stop looking for one universal setup. The method is built around a simple principle—keep a natural bait in the feeding zone—then adapt the weight, rig, leader, hook, and tackle strength to the venue.
Start with the lightest controlled setup, pay attention to bottom type and line angle, and change one variable at a time when bites are slow. That approach works whether you are learning from a harbor wall, fishing a beach at dusk, or lowering a rig from a boat over mixed ground.
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