Collection: Alpinism Sunglasses

Origins of Alpinism

The Alpine area has been populated since prehistoric times, with human presence evidenced by archaeological finds at altitudes much higher than the valley floor. It is believed that the early inhabitants of the Alps climbed the mountains for hunting or livestock breeding at high altitudes.

The exploits of the past—referring to the pioneers of archaic mountaineering—were documented by Greek and Roman historians such as Herodotus, Sallust, and Livy. They recount the achievements of those who ascended peaks like Mont Ventoux (1,909 m) in 1336 and Rocciamelone (3,538 m), formidable feats for their time.

Among the notable exploits of "mountaineering prehistory," the ascent of Mount Aiguille (2,085 m) in 1492, ordered by Charles VIII, is one of the best known. This expedition, led by a military expert, included religious figures and local workers who participated in erecting three crosses and a votive chapel on the summit.

Until the 1700s, climbing the great peaks represented sporadic events due to a lack of resources and interest. The great mountains remained unexplored for many years.

The Climb of the Main Peaks of the Alps

Traditionally, the birth of mountaineering is marked on August 8, 1786, the day of the first ascent of Mont Blanc. The drive to make the climb was initiated by the Geneva scientist Horace-Bénédict de Saussure, but the actual ascent was carried out by the doctor Michel Gabriel Paccard and the hunter and crystal seeker Jacques Balmat, who hailed from Chamonix.

The initial reasons for attempting to reach the tops of the main peaks were scientific in nature; they aimed to measure altitude and temperature and to explore environments that were still unknown at the time.

As interest in climbing the Alpine peaks grew, it was soon accompanied by a desire for discovery, particularly among the English and Germans, exemplified by the Este family of Alpine tourism. By the mid-nineteenth century, many of the main peaks of the Alps were climbed, including:

• Grossglockner – 1800
• Punta Giordani (Monte Rosa) – 1801
• Ortles – 1804
• Jungfrau – 1811
• Bernina – 1829
• Pelmo – 1857
• Monviso – 1861
• Grandes Jorasses – 1865
• Marmolada – 1864
• Matterhorn – 1865

The period of climbing peaks for scientific purposes ideally ended on July 14, 1865, with the first ascent of the Matterhorn.

While the ascent of Mont Blanc was partly driven by scientific interest and discovery, the feat of the Englishman Edward Whymper embodies the elements that would come to characterize modern mountaineering: the challenge as an end in itself, the allure of aesthetically captivating mountains, competition among different teams and nationalities, the tragedy of a fatal accident (during the descent, four of the seven members of the group lost their lives), and the ensuing controversies.

Birth of the Alpine Clubs

During the same period, several mountaineering associations were founded:

• Alpine Club (England) in 1857
• Österreichischer Alpenverein (Austria) in 1862
• Italian Alpine Club (CAI) in 1863
• Deutscher Alpenverein (DAV) in 1869
• Society of Tridentine Mountaineers (SAT) in 1872
• French Alpine Club in 1874
• Friulian Alpine Society (SAF) in 1874

Modern Alpinism

While the events that have occurred throughout history represent just the tip of the iceberg, it is not difficult to argue that a pioneering French manufacturer laid the foundations of modern mountaineering.

In the early 1970s, a new mountaineering movement emerged, named "Nuovo Mattino," inspired by an article by Gian Piero Motti in the "Rivista della Montagna." Climbers began to question and contest the methods and goals of traditional climbing. There were climbers who aimed to conquer classic routes using established techniques and methodologies. In contrast, the movement sought to base mountaineering on the discovery of freedom, a taste for transgression, and a rejection of the culture of summits at all costs, including the reliance on refuges, boots, the CAI, and guides, while also criticizing the environmental exploitation of mountains.

Through specific physical and mental training methods and technical innovations often imported from the United States (the first pioneers of free climbing), it became possible to overcome difficulties that seemed insurmountable at the time. This was the period when smooth-soled shoes began to be used, leading to the development of free climbing.

As the 1970s and 1980s passed, the Nuovo Mattino movement began to fade with its contradictions, leaving behind only what could be consumed and mass-produced.

1990s

Notable are the remarkable descents from the north faces of Mont Blanc by the great French snowboarder Marco Siffredi, who, following in the footsteps of Jean-Marc Boivin, was one of the first snowboarders to descend the Nant Blanc face alone (with a gradient of over 50º).

2000s

Mountaineering in the third millennium has become increasingly competitive, with mountaineer-athletes achieving extraordinary physical performances (such as completing multiple routes in a single day) and technical feats (including extremely difficult climbs and extreme ski descents), aided by the latest training techniques and mountaineering technologies.

Simultaneously, we are witnessing a diffusion of mountaineering practices beyond professional circles, attracting simple enthusiasts and amateurs. This trend has, in some cases, led mountaineering toward true forms of mass sport or sports tourism, often underestimating personal risks and limits.

CLIMBING TECHNIQUES AND DIFFICULTIES

Mountaineering is centered on overcoming the challenges that arise during ascents. These challenges can stem from obstacles in the terrain (such as vertical walls, narrow ridges, etc.) or from the environment itself (including high altitude and variable atmospheric conditions). The difficulties encountered can vary depending on the season in which the climb is undertaken and the type of environment chosen. Sometimes, specific climbing techniques are required to navigate climbing routes, while other times fully equipped routes, such as via ferratas, are utilized.

Climbing in Summer Conditions

The difficulties posed by the summer environment at low altitudes primarily involve overcoming vertical rock obstacles (walls). The techniques employed to tackle these challenges include both free and artificial climbing methods. In particular, these range from roped climbing techniques, where each climber provides security for the others, to the use of safety chains, parking devices, brakes, or anchor points.

Climbing in Winter Conditions

In winter, low temperatures and the presence of snow and ice present mountaineers with challenges that differ from those encountered in summer (often, new winter difficulties compound the typical summer challenges). To manage the harsh temperatures, specialized clothing is essential. For technical difficulties related to movement on snow and ice, specific tools are necessary, including one or two ice axes, crampons, and ice screws. Techniques used on ice waterfalls are applied to terrain consisting of vertical ice. Some routes may also allow for the use of ski mountaineering techniques, either in whole or in part.

HIGH ALTITUDE

Mountaineering often involves reaching high altitudes. Here, the frigid temperatures associated with elevation mean that the environment can resemble winter conditions, even in summer, while the winter characteristics are even more pronounced in colder seasons. Additionally, there is greater atmospheric variability and the potential for physiological disorders due to high altitude.

The effects of altitude can be classified based on the physiological responses observed in the human body:

• 0-500 m, near sea level: Atmospheric changes are imperceptible to humans and have no effect on human physiology.
• 500-2000 m, low altitude: Atmospheric changes become noticeable, but no significant disadvantages are typically observed. In elite athletes, a reduction in performance can be noted above 1500 m.
• 2000-3000 m, medium altitude: Environmental changes become evident, and altitude disorders may appear after a few hours of residence. Physical performance progressively decreases but can often be restored with acclimatization.
• 3000-5500 m, high altitude: A significant number of individuals experience altitude disorders, some of which can be serious. Physical performance is reduced even after proper acclimatization.
• >5500 m, extreme altitude: Due to the extreme conditions and the likelihood of severe altitude-related disturbances, permanent human presence is not feasible above 5500 meters.

DEGREE OF DIFFICULTY

To understand which ascents a mountaineer can tackle based on their technical skills and physical preparation, it is essential to know the difficulty of the route itself. This knowledge helps avoid the risk of encountering terrain that cannot be overcome without the option to turn back. The process of assigning a grade to a route is called quoting or grading, and it is conducted by the route's first ascenders and subsequent climbers. Since it can be challenging to classify routes based solely on objective data, they are often graded through comparison with known reference routes for which there is broad consensus regarding their degree of difficulty. However, subjective factors (such as the mountaineer's ability or familiarity with a specific environment) and variable objective factors (like weather conditions or snowfall) may also influence the grading.

Different disciplines within mountaineering and climbing utilize various scales of difficulty, and these can differ by country (e.g., Europe, United States):

• Mountaineering Difficulty: This scale, of French origin, describes the overall values of length, difficulty, and exposure of the route. The grade is expressed with the letters F, PD, AD, D, TD, ED, and ABO.

• Free Climbing: The most commonly used difficulty scales are the UIAA scale, expressed with Roman numerals from I to XI, and the French scale, which is represented by a number (3 - 9) followed by a letter (a - c). The "+" symbol is also used for intermediate grades. There are additional scales specific to the United States, England, and Australia.

• Aid Climbing: A scale of six increasing grades from A0 to A5 (with a separate seventh grade) is used, based on the difficulty and quantity of artificial tools employed.

• Ice Climbing: The Canadian scale is used, which measures both environmental and technical difficulty. The Water Ice (WI) scale ranges from WI1 to WI7.

• Mixed Climbing: A difficulty scale called M, for Mixed climbing, is used, which goes from M1 to M13.

APPROACH

Mountaineering ascents generally include an "approach" phase, which encompasses the route taken to reach the point where mountaineering difficulties begin. The approach route is typically of a hiking nature and follows the same difficulty scale used in hiking:

• T (Tourist): Itineraries with clear routes on small roads, mule tracks, or comfortable paths, generally below 2000 meters. They require some knowledge of the mountain environment and basic physical preparation for walking.

• E (Hiking): Itineraries that follow paths or tracks that are not always easy to find, often at higher altitudes. These routes may be exposed, feature grassy or debris slopes, or include snowy sections with non-demanding equipped passages. They require a sense of direction and knowledge of the mountains, as well as adequate footwear and equipment.

• EE (For Expert Hikers): Itineraries involving single rocky passages that are easy to climb, crossings of snowy channels, aerial and exposed sections, and traversing treacherous terrain. They require adequate equipment, experience in the mountains, surefootedness, and the absence of vertigo.

The EE grade, considered the limit of hiking activity, tends to coincide with the F grade of the mountaineering scale in some cases. However, generally, certified mountaineering routes require greater commitment and familiarity with moving on unmarked paths. Nevertheless, there are ascents to peaks along routes or climbing paths deemed hiking rather than mountaineering difficulty, typically on more modest peaks that are often grassy and may have little or no rocky presence.