Vertical Jigging and Inchiku Fishing: Complete Guide
Learn how vertical jigging and Inchiku differ, how to choose tackle and lure weight, how to control the lure under a drifting boat, and which retrieve to use when predators are active, suspended, or holding close to the bottom.
Navigate the guide
Start with the comparison, then move to tackle, lure choice, retrieves, target species, conditions, and practical troubleshooting.
Vertical jigging and Inchiku are boat-fishing techniques built around weighted artificial lures worked through the water column. They share the same basic idea—get the lure to fish at depth and control it precisely—but the most effective movement can be very different.
Classic vertical jigging usually relies on a metal jig animated with a deliberate cadence: fast cranks, short lifts, longer sweeps, pauses, or combinations of these. Inchiku fishing uses a compact weighted lure with a soft octopus-style skirt and assist hooks. It is often at its best with a much simpler presentation: reach the bottom or the marked depth, wind steadily, vary the speed, and add restrained lifts or pauses rather than overworking the lure.
The common denominator is control. A perfectly chosen lure is far less useful if wind and current push the line far from vertical, the jig is too light to stay in the strike zone, or the angler retrieves through empty water instead of the depth shown on the fishfinder. This guide focuses on those practical decisions rather than treating lure colour or a fixed tackle formula as the answer to every situation.
Vertical Jigging vs Inchiku: what is the difference?
Vertical jigging is the better starting point when fish are actively chasing bait, suspended in the water column, or responding to speed and directional changes. Inchiku is especially useful when fish are close to the bottom, following without committing, or responding better to a steady, less aggressive presentation.
| Decision | Vertical Jigging | Inchiku |
|---|---|---|
| Typical lure | Metal jig, often slim or asymmetric, rigged with assist hooks | Weighted metal body with a soft octopus-style skirt and assist hooks |
| Main action | Rhythmic cranking, lifts, jerks, sweeps, falls and pauses | Steady retrieve, restrained lifts, speed changes and pauses |
| Best starting situation | Active fish, suspended predators, bait schools, reaction bites | Bottom-oriented fish, cautious fish, slower feeding activity |
| Physical demand | Can be high with fast or heavy jigging | Usually lower because the lure can work with a calmer retrieve |
| Key control point | Cadence and depth | Retrieve speed, depth and keeping the skirt working freely |
Practical verdict: do not choose only by species. Choose by what the fish are doing. If the sounder shows active fish well off the bottom, start more dynamically. If marks are tight to structure or fish follow without striking, reduce speed, simplify the movement, and try Inchiku.
What is vertical jigging?
Vertical jigging is a boat-fishing method in which a weighted jig is dropped to the seabed or a chosen depth and then worked upward with a controlled rhythm. The goal is to make a compact metal lure behave like vulnerable or fleeing prey while keeping it close to the depth where predators are feeding.
The word “vertical” is important. The method is most efficient when the boat, current, line diameter and jig weight allow the lure to remain reasonably close to the boat. Once the line forms a large angle, depth becomes harder to judge, contact with the lure becomes less direct, and snag risk can increase around structure.
What makes it work
- Depth control: the lure can be sent quickly to bottom fish or stopped at a suspended mark.
- Cadence: the jig changes direction, speed and flash according to the rhythm created by rod and reel.
- Efficient coverage: one drop can explore several levels of the water column.
- Direct contact: braided line and a balanced rod help the angler feel the jig, bottom contact and many strikes.
There is no single “correct” jigging motion. Some jigs respond best to fast, compact cranking; others need a broader lift and controlled fall. The useful question is not how aggressively you can move the rod, but whether your cadence matches the jig design, the target depth and the current level of fish activity.
What is Inchiku fishing?
Inchiku is a Japanese-style offshore lure method built around a weighted metal body and a soft squid- or octopus-style skirt carrying assist hooks. It can be worked with lifts and pauses, but one of its greatest strengths is that it does not need constant aggressive rod action to look alive.
A productive basic sequence is simple: let the lure reach the bottom or target depth, remove slack, then begin a controlled retrieve. Change the winding speed to test fish response. Add occasional short lifts or pauses, but avoid assuming that more rod movement automatically makes the lure more effective. The soft skirt must remain free to pulse and move in the water.
Steady retrieve
Often the best baseline. A constant wind lets the metal body track cleanly while the skirt provides the softer visual component.
Controlled pauses
Stopping or slowing the lure can create an easy target, especially when fish are following but not committing.
Bottom discipline
Touching bottom tells you where the lure is, but repeatedly dragging or resting it over rough structure increases snag risk. Re-establish depth, then work just clear of the bottom.
Important: Inchiku is not simply “slow vertical jigging with an octopus skirt.” Its lure shape and soft components reward a cleaner retrieve. If you work it exactly like a high-speed jig, you may reduce the natural movement that makes the lure distinctive.
How to choose jig and Inchiku weight
Choose the lightest lure that still reaches the target depth efficiently and gives you reliable control. Depth matters, but current speed, wind, boat drift, line diameter, lure profile and the required fall speed can matter just as much.
| Situation | Useful starting range | What to watch |
|---|---|---|
| Shallower water or light drift | Approximately 40–80 g | Use enough weight to reach the zone without making the presentation unnecessarily heavy. |
| Medium depth or moderate current | Approximately 80–150 g | A versatile range for many boat-fishing situations, provided it matches the rod rating. |
| Deep water or strong current | Approximately 150–300 g or more | Prioritise depth control and a manageable line angle; heavier tackle may be required. |
These figures are starting points, not universal rules. A compact 120 g jig may descend more directly than a broad 150 g lure with more water resistance. Thin braid can also reduce drag and help a lighter lure stay vertical. If your line keeps sweeping away from the boat before the lure reaches the fish, moving up in weight is usually more useful than changing colour.
A simple rule: if you cannot tell where your lure is, cannot feel bottom contact when you need it, or are fishing far behind the boat instead of below it, the setup is no longer giving you enough control. Adjust boat position, line diameter, lure shape or lure weight.
Vertical jigging and Inchiku equipment
Build the outfit around the lures you actually expect to fish. Rod rating, reel size, braid, leader and terminal hardware should work as one system rather than being selected independently.
Rod: match the blank to lure weight and technique
Jigging rods are usually relatively short because a compact blank is easier to work vertically and provides leverage during the fight. The most important specification is the manufacturer’s lure-weight or jig-weight rating. A rod should comfortably animate the weights you use most often without feeling overloaded.
- Classic or faster jigging: look for a responsive blank that recovers cleanly and allows you to build a repeatable cadence.
- Inchiku: a more forgiving, progressive action can make a steady retrieve comfortable and help prevent the angler from overworking the lure.
- Heavy structure fishing: power must be sufficient to move a strong fish away from rocks or wreckage, while remaining balanced with line and drag settings.
Reel: smooth drag, capacity and comfortable retrieve
Both spinning and conventional reels can work. The better choice depends on the angler, lure weight and target species. A conventional reel offers direct spool control during repeated drops; a spinning reel is familiar to many anglers and can be very effective for vertical jigging.
Rather than chasing one universal gear ratio or drag number, focus on a smooth drag, enough line capacity for the depth and quarry, a rigid frame, corrosion-resistant construction, and a handle that remains comfortable through repeated retrieves.
Braid and leader
Braided line is central to modern jigging because its low stretch provides direct contact and its small diameter helps reduce drag in current. Line strength must match the target fish and structure. Lighter braid improves lure control, but there is no benefit in fishing so light that abrasion, knots or the expected fish become the weak point.
A fluorocarbon or abrasion-resistant monofilament leader adds protection near rocks, wrecks and a fish’s body. Keep connections compact and reliable. Knots such as the FG knot are widely used for braid-to-leader connections because they can pass through guides cleanly when tied correctly.
Terminal hardware
Use solid rings, split rings, swivels and assist hooks rated for the expected load. Check assist cord, hook points and rings regularly because repeated contact with fish, metal lures and structure can create hidden damage.
On-board visibility and eye comfort
Long sessions on open water create reflected glare. Polarized lenses can improve visual comfort and make surface details easier to read. They do not replace electronics for locating fish at depth, but they can make boat work and surface observation more comfortable.
Jigs, Inchiku lures and rigging
The lure’s shape controls how quickly it descends, how much it moves away from the vertical line, and how it behaves on the lift and fall. Weight matters, but two lures of identical weight can fish very differently because of profile and balance.
| Element | What it changes | When it helps |
|---|---|---|
| Slim metal jig | Fast descent and relatively low resistance | Deeper water, stronger current, suspended or active predators |
| Broader or asymmetric jig | More glide, flutter or lateral movement on the fall | When fish respond to a slower fall or a wider presentation |
| Inchiku body | Compact weighted profile with a soft trailing skirt | Bottom-oriented fish and steady, controlled retrieves |
| Assist hooks | Hooks remain independent from the rigid body of the lure | Common on modern jigging rigs; inspect cord and points frequently |
| Glow or high-contrast details | Changes visual contrast in low light or deeper water | A variable worth testing after depth, lure action and weight are under control |
How to rig a jig
A common modern setup connects the leader to a strong solid ring, with the assist hook attached to the ring and the jig connected through a split ring. This keeps the hook system independent from the lure body and allows the jig to move freely. Hardware strength should be matched to the line class and fish you are targeting.
How to rig an Inchiku
Inchiku designs vary, so follow the manufacturer’s intended orientation. The soft skirt and assist hooks must sit freely and must not be trapped around the body. Before every drop, check that the skirt is not torn, stiff, twisted or fouled around the hooks. A lure that reaches the right depth but arrives with its soft components tangled is no longer presenting as designed.
Colour comes after control. Natural, metallic, bright and glow finishes can all catch fish. Start by making sure the lure reaches the correct depth and works properly. Then treat colour as a test variable when fish are present but response is inconsistent.
Retrieval techniques for vertical jigging and Inchiku
Retrieval should match fish behaviour, not a fixed choreography. Use the sounder and the first few drops to learn whether fish are near the bottom, suspended, chasing, following or ignoring the lure.
Fast vertical jigging
Use a compact, repeatable rhythm of reel turns and rod movement to accelerate the jig through active fish. Work through the marked depth rather than automatically retrieving all the way to the surface.
Lift, fall and pause
Give the jig enough lift to change direction, then allow it to fall under controlled slack. Many metal jigs are designed to flash or glide on the drop, so stay ready for a strike while the lure is falling.
Classic Inchiku retrieve
Start with a steady wind from the bottom or marked depth. Change retrieve speed in deliberate steps and add occasional short pauses or gentle lifts. Keep the skirt free to move.
Do not confuse Inchiku with slow pitch jigging
Both can be used when a slower presentation is useful, but they are not the same technique. Slow pitch jigging is built around loading and unloading a specialised rod to make a metal jig turn, slide and fall. Inchiku relies more heavily on the lure’s weighted body and soft skirt, and often works with a steadier retrieve.
If you want to explore the fall-focused technique in depth, see the DEMON guide to slow pitch jigging technique and equipment.
When fish follow but do not strike: first reduce the number of variables. Slow the retrieve, shorten the movement, change the depth band, or switch between a metal jig and Inchiku. A clean change in presentation tells you more than changing weight, colour and cadence at the same time.
Boat drift, fishfinder use and line angle
Good vertical jigging starts before the lure enters the water. The boat must be positioned so the lure passes through the target zone while the angler can still control it. Wind and current may push the hull and lure in different directions, so a productive drift should be planned rather than left to chance.
1. Read the drift
Before the first serious drop, observe how quickly the boat moves and in which direction. A short test drift often tells you whether the selected jig weight is realistic.
2. Mark the fish
Use the fishfinder to identify bait, predators, hard structure and the depth band that deserves attention. Do not assume every fish is on the seabed.
3. Repeat productive passes
If a drift produces follows or strikes, note the direction and depth, then reposition the boat to reproduce the same path instead of continuing far beyond the active zone.
Line angle is an immediate feedback tool. A small angle can be manageable, but when the line sweeps far away from the boat, the lure may be shallower than expected and no longer below the transducer. At that point, increasing lure weight, using a lower-drag profile, reducing braid diameter where appropriate, or repositioning the boat can restore control.
Species commonly targeted with vertical jigs and Inchiku
These techniques are used for both bottom-oriented predators and fish suspended higher in the water column. The exact species depend on region, season and local regulations, but the presentation can be adapted from reefs and wrecks to open-water bait schools.
Dentex (Dentex dentex)
Dentex often relate to rocky structure, reefs, edges and areas holding forage. Inchiku, controlled jigging and slower presentations can all be useful when fish remain close to the bottom.
Greater amberjack (Seriola dumerili)
Amberjack are powerful predators that can respond strongly to fast vertical retrieves around reefs, wrecks, drop-offs and suspended bait. Tackle and drag must be appropriate for the fish and nearby structure.
Groupers
Groupers are structure-oriented and can take both jigs and Inchiku. Strong tackle and quick pressure may be needed to keep a hooked fish away from cover. Species-specific rules can be strict, so check local regulations before fishing.
Red porgy (Pagrus pagrus)
Red porgy can respond well to compact lures worked close to mixed or rocky bottom. A calmer Inchiku retrieve is a useful option when aggressive jigging draws little response.
Bonito and little tunny
When these fast pelagic fish are marked below bait, slim jigs and faster retrieves can efficiently cover the depth band. Pay attention to where the bait is concentrated rather than automatically fishing the bottom.
Mahi-mahi (Coryphaena hippurus)
Mahi-mahi are usually associated with pelagic conditions, floating structure and bait, but vertical jigs can be useful when fish are holding below surface activity or refuse a horizontal presentation.
Bluefish (Pomatomus saltatrix)
Bluefish can attack jigs aggressively around bait schools and current lines. Their teeth can damage leaders, so inspect the final section after contact and rig according to local conditions.
Seabream and other bottom fish
Smaller Inchiku and compact jigs can appeal to several seabream and bottom species. Lighter tackle may improve lure action where current and depth allow, but local size limits and species rules must always be respected.
Best conditions for vertical jigging and Inchiku
The most useful conditions are those that let you put the lure where the fish are and control it. A perfectly calm sea is not automatically best, and a stronger current is not automatically bad; the question is whether boat drift, lure weight and line angle remain manageable.
Current
Moderate current can concentrate bait and create feeding opportunities, but stronger flow increases line drag. Adjust lure profile and weight before assuming the fish have stopped feeding.
Wind and drift
Wind changes the boat’s path and therefore the lure’s path. If the drift becomes too fast to control, repositioning or changing the setup is more important than persisting with the same drop.
Depth
Greater depth increases the time required to reach fish and magnifies line drag. A compact lure and suitable braid can matter as much as simply increasing lure weight.
Structure
Reefs, wrecks, ledges and drop-offs can hold bait and predators, but they also increase snag and abrasion risk. Know how far above the structure you want to work.
Light level
Dawn, dusk, cloud cover and water clarity can change how fish position and how visible a lure is. Treat colour and glow as secondary adjustments once depth and presentation are correct.
Fishfinder marks
A sounder helps you decide whether to fish the bottom, a suspended layer or a bait school. The best retrieve is the one that actually travels through the fish.
Common vertical jigging and Inchiku mistakes
Using a lure that is too light
If current and drift sweep the line far from vertical, you lose depth accuracy and direct contact. Move to a denser or heavier lure before changing less important details.
Overworking the lure
More movement is not always more attractive. This is especially true with Inchiku, where a steady retrieve and free-moving skirt can be more effective than constant aggressive jerks.
Fishing only the seabed
Pelagic predators and even some bottom-oriented species may suspend above structure. If the sounder shows fish higher in the water column, stop the lure at the marked depth.
Ignoring the fall
Fish can strike while a jig is descending. Control the spool or line, stay alert for an unexpected stop, and be ready to engage the reel when the fall changes.
Changing everything at once
If you change colour, weight, lure shape and retrieve together, you learn very little. Change one major variable at a time so you can identify what fish respond to.
Neglecting hooks and leader
A productive drift can end quickly if an assist hook is dulled or a leader is abraded. Check the final rig after snags, hard fish, rock contact and missed strikes.
A practical sequence for each fishing spot
- Scan before dropping. Find structure, bait and the depth of the most promising marks.
- Read the drift. Check boat direction and speed before choosing the final lure weight.
- Start with control. Select a lure that reaches the zone cleanly and stays reasonably vertical.
- Match fish activity. Use a more dynamic jig retrieve for active fish; simplify and slow down for cautious fish.
- Work the correct depth band. Do not waste time retrieving through empty water if the sounder clearly shows where fish are holding.
- Repeat evidence. When you get a strike, note lure, depth, retrieve and drift direction, then reproduce the same pass.
Boat safety and fishing regulations
Vertical jigging often means repeated drops around deep water, hard structure and exposed offshore areas. Wear the safety equipment required for your boat and location, monitor marine weather, maintain reliable communication, and stop fishing when sea conditions exceed the capability of the boat or crew.
Fishing rules vary by country and region. Check current regulations for licences, minimum sizes, closed seasons, protected species, marine protected areas and bag limits before the trip. If a fish must be released, minimise handling time and use tackle strong enough to avoid unnecessarily prolonged fights.
FAQ about vertical jigging and Inchiku
Is vertical jigging suitable for beginners?
Yes. Start in manageable depth with a lure weight you can control and a simple retrieve. Learning to read line angle, feel bottom contact and stop the lure at the correct depth is more important than learning an elaborate jigging cadence on day one.
Is Inchiku easier than vertical jigging?
It can be easier physically because it often works with steady winding and restrained rod movement. However, good Inchiku fishing still requires accurate depth control, sensible lure weight and the ability to keep the skirt and hooks working freely.
What weight jig should I use?
Use the lightest lure that reaches the fish and remains controllable. Current, wind, drift, braid diameter and lure shape all influence the answer. If the line sweeps far away from the boat, increase control before changing colour or retrieve.
Do I need a special jigging rod?
A dedicated jigging rod makes the technique easier because its length, action and lure rating are designed around vertical work. Whatever rod you use, never exceed the manufacturer’s stated lure-weight and line recommendations.
Should an Inchiku be jerked like a metal jig?
Not necessarily. A steady retrieve is an excellent starting point, and speed changes, short lifts or pauses can be added as needed. Excessive jerking may reduce the natural action of the soft skirt.
Can fish bite on the drop?
Yes. Metal jigs and Inchiku can be taken while falling. Watch the line and spool: if the lure stops earlier than expected or the fall changes abruptly, engage the reel and check for a fish.
Does lure colour matter?
It can, but depth control and lure action come first. Once you know fish are present and the lure is working correctly, compare natural, metallic, bright and glow finishes to see whether one produces a better response.
How often should I check the leader and hooks?
Check them after snags, hard structure contact, toothy fish and strong fights, and inspect them regularly during the session. Replace damaged leader, assist cord, rings or hooks before they become the reason a fish is lost.
Control first, then refine the presentation
The most reliable way to improve at vertical jigging and Inchiku is to think in a clear order: find fish, understand the drift, choose enough weight to maintain control, work the correct depth, and only then refine retrieve speed, cadence, lure shape and colour.
Vertical jigging gives you a highly dynamic way to trigger active predators throughout the water column. Inchiku gives you a controlled alternative that can remain convincing with surprisingly little rod movement. Carrying both allows you to respond to changing fish behaviour instead of forcing one method all day.
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